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Monthly magazine about history and scale plastic modeling.

Step by Step engine F4F-4

  • Page 1

    STEP BY STEP
    STEP STEP
    BY
    F4F-4 engine PRINT 1/48 built by Jan Baranec
    #648828
    Contents of the F4F-4 Wildcat engine set, composed of 3D prints.
    Individual parts can be separated from their supports using a razor saw. I separated the smaller parts from their supports using high-quality
    cutting pliers.
    INFO Eduard26
    July 2023

  • Page 2

    STEP BY STEP
    I clean some of the more fragile parts partially attached to the supports
    for better handling. The parts do not twist as much and damage to them
    is minimized during cleaning.
    Due to the high accuracy of 3D printed parts, individual
    components can first be assembled dry and then thin glue
    can be applied, allowing capillary action to do its thing.
    Excess glue can be removed with a debonder.
    Individual parts and subassemblies ready for a first coat, consisting
    of Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Gray.
    Medium or thick CA glue is used to affix the smaller parts.
    The rest of the supports can be cleaned most
    easily with modelling files or sanding sponges.
    If you can see a slight layering on some sections
    of some parts, it can be sanded with 1500 grit or
    finer sanding sponges.
    For more complex parts where sanding
    isn’t really an option, the light raster can be
    treated by scrubbing with a coarse brush
    dipped in pure isopropyl alcohol.
    INFO Eduard
    27
    July 2023

  • Page 3

    STEP BY STEP
    Before applying the surfacer, I sprayed all the etched parts with Mr. Metal
    Primer to improve adhesion of all subsequent coats.
    As a base color, I chose Mr. Black Spray Putty Finishing Surfacer
    1500 grit.
    The uniformity of the basic spray can be broken up via lightening the gray color by adding a few drops of off-white C069 and creating a mottling effect.
    I sprayed the engine body including its cylinders
    with Gunze Silver from the Super Metallic line,
    specifically Super Fine Silver SM01.
    The exhausts were sprayed with a combination
    of highly diluted AK Interactive Bronze and
    Brass metallic paints in an irregular pattern.
    If this effect is overdone, it can be toned down
    with heavily diluted black paint. The final step
    was spraying the exhaust pipe with Gunze GX114
    Matt varnish.
    The inner surfaces of the parts were painted
    light grey according to the instructions,
    using Gunze C325.
    INFO Eduard28
    July 2023

  • Page 4

    STEP BY STEP
    The outer surfaces were painted with Gunze C367 Blue-Grey mentioned
    in the instructions.
    Again, these blue-grey surfaces were toned down by spraying
    a mottle using C367 with a few drops of off-white C069.
    As per the instructions, the reducer of the drive unit was sprayed
    with Gunze C306 Grey.
    The interiors of the larger surfaces of the
    housing were lightened by spraying with
    a mixture of Gunze C306 and off-white, C069.
    The distributor is glued to the engine body and needs to
    be painted with Gunze C306. I mixed a similar shade using
    black (AK Interactive) and dirty white (Vallejo) with the
    intention of brushing this on.
    I painted the protective jacket of the ignition system cables
    using a brush with a mixture of red (Mr. Paint) and earth
    brown (AK interactive 3rd generation).
    All relief, corners, screws and lines were treated
    with a very thinned transparent smoke color
    using Gunze C101.
    Manifolds for the individual pistons were
    painted black using an AK Interactive brush.
    INFO Eduard
    29
    July 2023

  • Page 5

    STEP BY STEP
    The intake ducts were brushed on with silver paint (chrome) from
    Mr. Paint.
    Everything was clear coated with Gunze GX100 Super Clear III gloss
    varnish to provide protection against pending weathering with oil paints.
    The production label in the form of a decal is part of the plastic
    kit and not the engine set. For better adhesion, I applied it using
    Gunze’s Mr. Mark Setter.
    I washed the silver parts of the engine with diluted black oil paint from Ammo. I washed the silver parts of the engine with diluted black oil paint from Ammo.
    For the other parts, I mixed a wash of black and
    dark brown oil paints (Ammo Oilbrusher).
    INFO Eduard30
    July 2023

  • Page 6

    STEP BY STEP
    Excess oil paint can be wiped off using various cotton swabs or it
    can be washed away with a brush dipped in oil paint thinner.
    The weathering was sealed with matte varnish before final assembly.
    I did not use the matt varnish on the metal parts of the engine, so
    as not to destroy the effect offered by the silver color.
    Finished individual
    subassemblies and
    components before
    gluing.
    Using a splatter brush dipped in a thicker mixture of black and dark
    brown oil paints, the weathering over the lower part of the engine cowl
    was simulated.
    The last step before the final assembly was to paint the edges of the
    reduction gear with a light gray color.
    INFO Eduard
    31
    July 2023

  • Page 7

    STEP BY STEP
    Weathering of adjacent surfaces was accomplished using a weathering
    sponge, lightly dabbing on a mixture of black and dark brown oil paint.
    If you overdo this effect, it can be dampened using a dry or lightly
    moistened brush with oil paint thinner.
    The last step was to create abrasions and scratches with a thin brush
    and silver paint.
    According to the instructions, copper wires were
    shaped, glued in place and then painted, along
    with the remaining piping and wiring, silver.
    After assembling the main parts, the actuating
    rods of the engine cooling flaps were addressed.
    The cooling flaps were attached to their
    appropriate places according to the
    instructions using instant (CA) glue.
    INFO Eduard32
    July 2023
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