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eduard
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Info Eduard - July 2011
WORKSHOP
eduard
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Info Eduard - July 2011
black paint to C8. Now it was time for clear glo-
ss coat in preparation for decals. Many fellow
modellers don’t use varnish when doing NMF but
I do, due to the surface protection that it offers.
WEATHERING THE MODEL:
After placing the decals I brushed MIG Produc-
tion’s Dark Wash on the entire model surface.
The MIG production range of products (lters,
502 Abteilung oil paints and washes) are my fa-
vourite and I use them with great results. I wiped
off the excess wash with Odourless Turpentine.
Multiple layers of washes can be applied to ob-
tain desired look. Then I applied gray and ochre
lters using my airbrush. The latter was applied
very lightly as it was to represent yellowing of the
varnish. However I was not happy with the results
so I wiped it off. Even so, the surface changed its
appearance slightly and the effect may still be
seen on close examination. I continued with subtle
spraying of AK Interactive Dust effects along the
wings roots. As a next step I stippled turpentine
into this layer creating “wet” stains representing
footprints. I worked in circular strokes using a sti-
ff brush. Since the actual footprints were black,
I applied undiluted Dark Wash on the affected
wing root surfaces. I allowed this ne layer to
dry, then followed with Dark Wash stippling and
brushing the footprints. Dark areas around the
fasteners were sprayed with a heavily thinned
mix of black and brown paints. The leaks around
the fasteners may be added depending on the
actual wear of a particular airplane. I used St-
reaking Grime by AK-Interactive. I put a drop
next to the fastener and when dry I smeared
it with a brush. Several layers can be applied
this way to represent heavier leaks. Last but not
the least came the oil stains. I used undiluted Oil
and Grease Stain Mixture from MIG Production.
A small drop was placed on the select area and
smeared when dry. To achieve different effects
you can vary the shine of the surface by spraying
clear varnish on the areas where darker blotches
show through the aluminium paint.
DROP TANK WEATHERING :
I followed the same procedure as described
above for the high speed drop tanks, only omi-
tted footprint wear and tear. Fluid leaks were
depicted with a drop of Mig’s Oil and Grease
Stain Mixture in the fuel tank ller cap and ran-
domly blown away with the airbrush. I repeated
this four times until I was happy with the result.
EXHAUST NOZZLE WEATHERING:
Nozzle covers show different weathering in com-
parison to the rest of the airframe. After masking
the NMF panels, I oversprayed a darker paint
mixture over the nozzle area; then applied zig-
-zag blotches of highly thinned green, red, blue
and yellow paints. These vivid colours represent
the metal annealed by the high temperature of
the exhaust gases. Finally, I applied a wash into
the rivets and panel lines and oversprayed the
nozzle edge with black paint, which I also used
for painting the nozzle inner surfaces.
Conclusion: Although this painting technique may
seem complicated, it really is not. Every step du-
ring the painting process is simple provided you
are handy with the airbrush, possess imagination
and are willing to experiment. As I mentioned
earlier, access to plenty of reference pictures
of the plane you intend to build will be quite
helpful too.