Page 19
Info Eduard - September 2010
Page 19
WORKSHOP
well for the wiring to the spark plugs (not yet
installed here) before the installation of any
items that may get in the way of them.
5. Paint application of the cam shaft
assembly, sprayed Super Titanium.
Caution: for a realistic look to the engine,
the effective accentuation of the rockers
is important, and this is best done by
painting the spaces between them with
matt black - rockers and valve springs
will stand out beautifully, and the block
that connects them will optically become
a shadow. Magnetos are painted gloss black.
6. The intake manifold is attached to the
block, which was rst painted Super Titanium. The actual
intake manifold is painted in matt light grey/cream color,
to replicate the asbestos insulation.
7. The cam shaft is glued in position.
8. Application of the nameplates and other details.
9. The engine receives a wash of heavily diluted Van
Dyck Brown oil paint, leading to a desired accent
of details.
10. The exhausts are painted metal, and covered with
a shade of rust. These are then attached to the model
after the paint application to the fuselage is complete. In
this way, the exhausts are protected from breaking off
and/or being lost.
1. Base coat of Mr. Surfacer.
2. A coat of white over ports, borders and leading edges
3. Masking and spraying of radiator using Mr. Color Super
Stainless.
4. Masking of radiators, ports and borders of wings
5. Spraying of surfaces in the areas of struts and the
wooden leading edges.
6. Masking of struts and leading edges.
7. Spraying areas of the shadow of the national insignia
on the lower wing surfaces.
8. Masking of the shadow of the national insignia
of the lower wing surfaces.
9. Spray of the spacings between wing ribs on the upper
surfaces - grey.
10. Spray of the spacings between the wing ribs
on the lower surfaces - white with grey edges.
11. Removing the masks of the ports, wing borders, struts
and shadows caused by the national insignias. Only the
radiators remain masked.
12. Spray highly diluted paint of the fabric shade
in several thin layers, so that the desired shadow effects
are achieved.
13. Clear gloss in decal areas.
14. Decal application with the use of setting solutions.
15. Decal clear coating.
Painting of the Wings in Twenty Steps
First, pour yourself a nice glass of wine. The repre-
sentation of unpainted, clear-doped linen, to look con-
vincing, is in my opinion, the most difcult nishes to
simulate. What makes it difcult and challenging, is that
it is a bit translucent. The structural members underneath
it are visible in the form of shadows and lightly visible
details that project themselves on the fabric covering.
On the top of the wing, the interior structure, with respect
to the local area, comes across as lighter. They capture
light. On the bottom sides, the effect is negative, and
the structural members block light causing shadows.
On the upper surface of the wing, the area between the
ribs comes across as darker - light rays penetrate from
these areas and through to the bottom surface, where
the spac between the ribs comes across as lighter.
This can be observed by going to an airshow that features
historical types that have these types of coverings and
can be observed close up and photographed. Beware
of taking such reference photos in museums. The ash
will distort this effect.
The painting of the wings allows the taking of advan-
tage of the qualities of Gunze paints, that allow the use
of preshading, postshading and the application of lters.
So, to the job at hand:
16. Spraying a lter over the lter, such that the darker
color remains in the areas of the port, areas between the
wing ribs are lightened in a subtle manner.
17. Weathering of the wings with highly diluted oil paints
18. Shading of the radiators - wash with highly diluted
black oil paint.
19. Final adjustments, especially with the use of lters
20. Application of at coat.
And that is essentially it. Hope you try it, like it,
and have success with it!